The solution is here: Pre-germinate your seeds! You'll save time, effort and money! by pre germinating your seeds you'll gain 300 to 400% in time, increase your success rate by more than double and you will also save yourself a lot of watering and increase the success of your project.
Grass seeds need between 10 to 28 days* to grow in good conditions, this method provides a foolproof jump start and will cut down the time needed by up to 400%. If you try it, you'll never go back to the old method, believe me! : I have witnessed first hand grass sprouting in less than 3 days!
*Tall Fescue 10 to 14 days to germination
*Kentucky Bluegrass 21 to 28 days to germination
This method allows you to reduce the time needed by more than half.
*Tall Fescue 10 to 14 days to germination
*Kentucky Bluegrass 21 to 28 days to germination
This method allows you to reduce the time needed by more than half.
By pre-germinating your seeds, you can control the process and provide the absolute best environment. As you know, seeds needs constant moisture in order to germinate, providing such on a patch of lawn means that you need to water constantly, which can be costly and also a hassle to monitor.
This trick was given to me by a pro landscaper working in very affluent suburbs and it works like a charm. 20 min of work, 3-5 days of rest, and you'll be amazed: No constant watering and a much better germination rate.
To do so, you'll need:
- A wheel barrel, bucket or any recipient.
- Grass Seeds Scotts Turf Builder Quality Tall Fescue Grass Seed
(Do Not buy cheap stuff : Often contains weed or annual ryegrass (annual means that the grass is not perennial and last only one season)
- Good Soil (Scott's Lawn soil ) Avoid cheapo "Top Soil" as it is mainly tree bark and is poorly suitable for grass seeds
- Scotts Lawns Start Fertilizer
or any type 20-27-5. Do not use "regular, weed preventer or established lawn" fertilizer, Weed preventer will stop germination and regular fertilizer has too much Nitrogen and often zero Phosphorus. (Phosphorous is what we are looking for)
or a 
- Rake if you have larger patches to fix
- Plastic bag
The Preparation:
1) In a wheel barrel or any recipient, pour Scotts Lawn Soil and mix well to break and remove clumps. Use your hands if necessary. (shown here: half a bag, about 1CF)
2) Sprinkle the Scotts Lawns Start Fertilizer over it (about half a cup) and mix very well
3) Add the seeds. I use about 3 to 5 cups of seed, and mix well again. Don't forget to mix the corners too :-) you want to spread the seeds uniformly
When done, it should look like that. (US Quarter shown for size) There is no need to "overseed" Don't forget that you can only see the surface ;-)
4) Water slowly! Add about a gallon of lukewarm water (~ 75F) is better than cold. Do NOT over water , it will do more harm than good.
The soil should be damp but not soaked. Mix well to spread the moisture. let rest 5 minutes, and add more water if necessary. be careful to not create pools of water on the bottom: seeds can be damaged by too much water or simply rot.
5) Compact gently to provide good soil contact and cover loosely with a plastic bag or some newspaper to limit evaporation. That's it. Let it rest for 24hrs. You can rest too, and don't forget to come back the next day for 5 minutes.
For best result, the temperature should be between 60 to 80F (16 to 27 deg Celsius) under, the germination will take longer, over , water evaporates quite fast. Expect between 3 days at 80F to 5 days at 60F.
Day 2: Add some more water if necessary and mix gently. re-compact lightly if necessary
Day 3: Repeat Day 2 and take a close look at the seeds, you should see some cracking on the seeds hull, which is a good sign. (magnifying glass needed)
Day 4: Look at the seeds, very closely, and you should see a tiny white dot emerging. This is the sign that tells you that the seeds should be planted within 24hrs max: Don't let the seeds germinate fully and develop roots in your wheel barrel! Plant them!
On the parts that need to be patched, loosen the soil on 2" (5 cm) deep, remove debris and dead grass. Pre-water the area generously, don't hesitate to water a larger area than the one(s) patched and spread the mixture over. Apply about 1/2 inch thick of it.
Compact lightly and water frequently rather than deeply. (the use of a Digital Water Timer will do great service to you: 10-15 min watering every 3-6hrs will keep the seeds and seedlings moist.
Cover lightly with grass clippings to limit evaporation.
Depending on the soil temperature, you may expect sprouting between 2 to 3 days, That's between 10 to 15 days faster than the regular seeding method. You'll also notice a higher rate of germination.
Furthermore, the main reason for failed grass to grow is the lack of moisture during the first 10 days, with this method there is very little rick of such. You have also saved you a lot of time and effort watering the seeds
FAQ
Lawn Cut Height
Don't scalp!
Most people cut their lawn too short. In spring when the temperatures are cool and the weather wet, you can allow a short cut if you need to core aerate, dethatch or overseed, but keep in mind that the blades are the Energy Factory of your lawn. When cut too short you force the lawn to take resources from the roots. Longer blades promotes longer roots.
by cutting too short you'll also give direct sunlight to soil and allow weeds to germinate and water to evaporate faster. And don't forget to keep your mower blades sharp!
It is better to mow the lawn late afternoon in summer. If cut during the morning, the sun will bake the freshly cut grass all day long. Give it a fresh night to recup!
Spring: 2 to 2.5 In 5 to 6 cm
Summer: 2.5 to 3 In 6 to 7.5 cm
Lawn Cut Height
Don't scalp!
Most people cut their lawn too short. In spring when the temperatures are cool and the weather wet, you can allow a short cut if you need to core aerate, dethatch or overseed, but keep in mind that the blades are the Energy Factory of your lawn. When cut too short you force the lawn to take resources from the roots. Longer blades promotes longer roots.
by cutting too short you'll also give direct sunlight to soil and allow weeds to germinate and water to evaporate faster. And don't forget to keep your mower blades sharp!
It is better to mow the lawn late afternoon in summer. If cut during the morning, the sun will bake the freshly cut grass all day long. Give it a fresh night to recup!
Spring: 2 to 2.5 In 5 to 6 cm
Summer: 2.5 to 3 In 6 to 7.5 cm
A good article on proper mowing is linked here: http://ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/4000/4020.html
Also, mulching does good: Instead of bagging your grass clippings, if your mower can mulch, do it: it feeds the lawn and reduce the need for fertilizer and watering, it does not create mulch as long as you mow your lawn frequently, don't let the grass grow 10" tall and then cut it to 1". Mow frequently and cut only an inch rather than the reverse. Thatch is mostly created by shallow watering and the overuse of fertilizer.
Also, mulching does good: Instead of bagging your grass clippings, if your mower can mulch, do it: it feeds the lawn and reduce the need for fertilizer and watering, it does not create mulch as long as you mow your lawn frequently, don't let the grass grow 10" tall and then cut it to 1". Mow frequently and cut only an inch rather than the reverse. Thatch is mostly created by shallow watering and the overuse of fertilizer.
Fertilizer type 20-27-5
The 3 numbers indicate the content (%) of Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), Potassium (K)A 20-27-5 fertilizer means that it contains 20% Nitrogen, 27%Phosphorous and 5% Postassium as active ingredients
Phosphorous is necessary for good root development. For instance the Scotts® Turf Builder® Lawn Fertilizer has a fertilizer analysis of 32-0-4. With 32% Nitrogen, this is a bit high for brand new seedlings, and has 0% Phosphorous (Phosphorous promotes root growth and germination)
Grass Seeds
Depending on your area, location and amount of sunlight, choose your grass seeds accordingly. Don't go against nature: you'll win the first month and will loose for the next 10 years. Don't hesitate to ask your local Hardware store or research on the internet.
Tall Fescue: Grows faster than KGB (Kentucky Blue Grass), needs less water but does not self repair. Tolerant to shade. Tall Fescue is also known for deeper roots.
Kentucky Blue Grass: Self repair (propagate by rhizomes) less drought resistant than TF, less tolerant to shade, great color. Need about 23 days to germinate, 10 with this method.
Tall Fescue: Grows faster than KGB (Kentucky Blue Grass), needs less water but does not self repair. Tolerant to shade. Tall Fescue is also known for deeper roots.
Kentucky Blue Grass: Self repair (propagate by rhizomes) less drought resistant than TF, less tolerant to shade, great color. Need about 23 days to germinate, 10 with this method.
I use different type of seeds depending on the amount of sun (sun/shade & Heat-Tolerant Thermal Blue
)  |
| Picture courtesy of American Lawn |
Patch Test on Heat-Tolerant Thermal Blue
Vs. Tall Fescue.
Vs. Tall Fescue.
The 2 key factors of your success will be the following: Water and soil. Water as a start, soil for prosperity of your lawn. Don't hesitate to amend the soil: you'll see a great deal of positive difference. I, personally, can see a great difference where I have amended the soil: greener & healthier.
Soil/Lawn improvement go from dethatching, core aeration, loam or compost addition, the use of the Harvard Brew, or Ironite
/ Milogarnite*
*Milogarnite (can) also acts as deer repellent. Please read the Wikipedia on that subject.
Soil/Lawn improvement go from dethatching, core aeration, loam or compost addition, the use of the Harvard Brew, or Ironite
/ Milogarnite**Milogarnite (can) also acts as deer repellent. Please read the Wikipedia on that subject.
or the aerator for 24 hrs to 48 hrs. As a tip, you can use the pump outlet an attach a small tubing next to the exit, it will create a Venturi effect and makes lots of bubbles ; -) 
and install it in 5 Minutes. Chop-Chop You are 95% done!
... No fuss, no mess.
50 PSI output / 180 Ft Head. 
(Best Choice) 
)
. During pollen season, just add some rock wool as extra filtration medium and discard when dirty. (As extra filtration, one can use an old sock, or nylon pantyhose. instead of trashing directly your old lonely sock, put them to a second use and discard when dirty)
and hook it to the rain barrel, or get the 
(you need in/out) or directly a threaded male Y connector.